Harar: nestled in the eastern highlands of Ethiopia, is a city unlike any other. Enclosed by ancient, ochre-colored walls, this captivating urban labyrinth is a living museum, a vibrant tapestry woven with threads of rich Islamic history, unique architectural traditions, and an extraordinary, centuries-old relationship with wild hyenas. Stepping through its five historic gates is like entering a different era, where the air hums with the echoes of trade caravans, Sufi saints, and a distinctive cultural identity fiercely preserved over time.
Harar’s origins stretch back to the 7th century, making it one of the oldest Islamic cities in Africa. It rose to prominence as a vital center of trade and Islamic learning, forging connections across the Arabian Peninsula and the wider Horn of Africa. For centuries, it served as the capital of the Adal Sultanate and later the Harari Emirate, flourishing as a hub for commerce in coffee, spices, textiles, and other goods. Its strategic location along key trade routes contributed to its wealth and cultural diversity, attracting merchants, scholars, and artisans from various backgrounds.
The heart of Harar is its walled city, Jugol, a dense network of narrow, winding alleyways that invite exploration and discovery. Traditional Harari houses, known for their distinctive architecture, line these intricate paths. Characterized by their inward-facing designs, these multi-storied homes feature elaborately decorated facades painted in vibrant hues of white, yellow, green, and blue. The intricate geometric patterns and symbolic motifs adorning the walls reflect the city’s rich cultural and religious heritage. Wandering through this labyrinth, one encounters bustling local markets, hidden courtyards, and a palpable sense of community that has endured for generations.
Perhaps Harar’s most unique and captivating tradition is its centuries-old relationship with wild hyenas. Every night, just outside the city walls, the “Hyena Men” of Harar engage in a ritualistic feeding of these wild scavengers. This extraordinary practice, steeped in local folklore and believed to have originated in the 15th century, is a testament to a remarkable coexistence between humans and wildlife. The Hyena Men call out to the hyenas by name, offering them raw meat, and the animals respond with a surprising degree of trust. This nightly spectacle is a truly unforgettable experience, offering a rare glimpse into an ancient tradition that continues to fascinate visitors from around the world.
A journey to Harar is an unforgettable immersion into a truly distinctive corner of Ethiopia, offering a profound appreciation for its enduring charm and captivating mystery.
