The Surma (or Suri) live in southern Ethiopia, on the west bank of the Omo River. Since time immemorial, they have had to fight to protect their land and cattle, especially against their enemies, the fierce Nyangatom. The Civil War in Sudan flooded the area with AK-47s, and raids have become increasingly bloody. In this context of continuous insecurity, the Surma have more than ever to display their courage, virility, and strength, and Donga is a unique occasion to perpetuate their legend.
To witness these ritual fights, a two- or three-day drive from Addis Ababa with a 4WD is necessary. Once there, you will spend the night at the Turgit Police Station (two shacks made with bits and pieces) in the middle of huts and under the constant surveillance of local armed policemen. Just forget about mobile phones, newspapers, TV, or any Internet access; you are cut off from the rest of the world, surrounded by naked warriors and women wearing lip plates. One of the main Surma customs is stick fighting. This ritual sport is called Donga or Sagenai. Donga is both the name of the sport and the stick, whereas Sagenai is the name of the stick-fighting session. In most cases, stick fighting is a way for warriors to find girlfriends; it can also be a way to settle conflicts. On this occasion, men show their resistance to pain to the young women. The fights are held between Suri villages, gathering hundreds of warriors.
